Ruby Valley Hot Springs

What to expect

Ruby Valley Hot Springs, also called Smith Ranch Hot Springs, is a cluster of natural spring pools on the open floor of Ruby Valley in northeastern Nevada. The valley sits at about 6,000 feet. To the west the Ruby Mountains climb steeply above the sagebrush, and just south of the springs the marshes of Ruby Lake National Wildlife Refuge begin. Travel Nevada places the springs between the refuge and Franklin Lake Wildlife Management Area to the north.

There are several pools. The biggest is roughly 30 feet across and deep, with clear water that looks blue-green against the pale bottom. It is the kind of pool you can actually swim across, not a shallow tub. The water in the main pool and the smaller pools beside it is usually close to 100°F38°C. A few of the small springs around the edges run much hotter and can scald, so test every pool before you get in.

The site is almost untouched. Apart from the dirt track in, the only built things are a small wooden dock beside the main pool and a metal ladder on another. There are no toilets, no shade, no trash cans and no drinking water. You bring everything and you take everything back out.

The open valley gives big views in every direction and a very dark night sky. Because it is so open, wind can make a cold day feel colder once you are out of the water.

Getting there

Elko is the starting point. The springs are about 60 miles away, and most people take a bit more than an hour on the shortest route. Download or print your directions before you leave town: cell service fades fast, and app routing on these back roads is unreliable.

• Via Harrison Pass (shortest): From Elko, take NV-227 (Lamoille Highway) and then NV-228 south through Jiggs. Continue on Harrison Pass Road over the Ruby Mountains and down into Ruby Valley, then follow county dirt roads east across the valley floor to the springs. Fish and Wildlife Service describes the 4.2-mile pass as steep, rough and winding, never suitable for large trailers or motor homes, and not passable in winter. It can be impassable from October to May.
• Via Secret Pass (longer): Leave I-80 at exit 321 and follow the road through Secret Pass and down Ruby Valley Road. The refuge says this route to its headquarters is about 67 miles, mostly dirt and gravel, and can be very muddy in wet weather or snowmelt.

The last few miles to the springs are rough and unpaved. A high-clearance vehicle is the minimum, and 4WD is recommended year-round and needed when the ground is wet. Stay on the established track and park on firm ground well back from the water. The ground around the pools is soft wetland, and vehicles that leave the track have sunk.

Carry a spare tire, extra fuel, food and plenty of water, and tell someone where you are going and when you plan to be back. The bar in Jiggs is a good place to ask about road conditions on the way in.

When to go

Summer and early fall are the realistic season. Harrison Pass is usually open, the roads are dry and the valley is green around the refuge. Water near 100°F38°C is pleasant even on warm afternoons at this elevation, and evenings cool off quickly.

Spring is often muddy. Snowmelt and rain can turn the valley roads into sticky clay.

Winter access is not advised. Harrison Pass is closed by snow, the other routes are long, and a breakdown out here can mean a long, cold wait. If you are thinking about an off-season trip, call Ruby Lake National Wildlife Refuge headquarters at 775-779-2237 for road conditions first.

Rules and etiquette

• No fee and no permit. Travel Nevada lists the springs as free and open to the public year-round.
• Land status: Travel Nevada says the springs are on state land. BLM’s surface-management map shows the spring parcel as non-federal, between BLM land and Ruby Lake National Wildlife Refuge. Obey any signs or fences, and do not wander onto private ground.
• Clothing is optional in practice. Bring a suit in case you share the pools.
• No glass. Broken glass in or near a pool you cannot see the bottom of is a real hazard.
• Keep dogs out of the water and under control near the soft banks.
• Leave no trace. Pack out all trash, including toilet paper, and do not add soap or anything else to the pools.
• Refuge rules apply on the refuge. Ruby Lake National Wildlife Refuge is open from 1 hour before sunrise to 1 hour after sunset (2 hours before sunrise in waterfowl season). Off-road vehicles are not allowed on refuge roads east of Ruby Valley Road.

Where to stay nearby

There is no camping at the springs.

• South Ruby Campground (Humboldt-Toiyabe National Forest) is about 17 miles away by road, at 6,000 feet above Ruby Lake. It has 35 sites, picnic tables, fire rings, vault toilets and drinking water in summer. The main season runs from about early May to late September, and sites can be reserved on Recreation.gov from about Memorial Day to Labor Day. The lower loop often stays open in winter as first come, first served, without water. Ranger station: 775-752-3357.
• Elko, about an hour away, has the nearest motels, restaurants and fuel.

Safety notes

• Scalding springs: The main pools are near 100°F38°C, but some of the small springs nearby are much hotter. Never step into water you have not tested.
• Deep water: The big pool is deep, and the bottom is hard to judge. Weak swimmers should stay near the dock and ladder. Do not dive, and keep your head above water, as with any hot spring.
• Soft ground: The wetland around the pools can trap a vehicle or a foot. Park on firm ground.
• Remoteness: Help is far away and cell service is close to nonexistent. Carry a spare, water and warm layers.
• Weather: Storms build quickly over the Ruby Mountains in summer. Lightning on an open valley floor is a reason to get out of the water.

Nearby stops worth adding

Ruby Lake National Wildlife Refuge covers almost 40,000 acres of marsh and open water at about 6,000 feet, and more than 220 bird species have been recorded there. It has an auto-tour route, though parts can close to protect nesting waterfowl, so check at headquarters. Lamoille Canyon, on the other side of the Ruby Mountains near Elko, makes a good second stop if you come in on NV-227.