Spencer Hot Springs

What to expect

Spencer Hot Springs is a group of steaming springs on the edge of Big Smoky Valley in central Nevada, below the west side of the Toquima Range. It sits at about 5,625 feet on open public land managed by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM), about 18 miles southeast of the old mining town of Austin. The view is the reason many people come back: a long, empty valley with the Toiyabe Range across it and almost no lights at night.

Several springs rise from a low mound at temperatures of roughly 130-140°F54-60°C. The water runs down shallow channels to the soaking spots, which change a little from year to year. Travel Nevada describes three main places to sit, sometimes four:

• The cowboy tubs. Two metal stock tanks fed by pipes. The bigger one is the most popular soak. A fourth tub is often usable but noticeably cooler.
• The natural pool. Uphill from the tubs, a hot-tub-sized pool with a soft bottom, lined with flat stones you can sit on.

The tubs usually sit somewhere around 90-105°F32-41°C. You are in charge of the temperature. Pull the inflow pipe away or close its valve once the tub is hot enough, and let it fill again when it cools. Please leave the pipe pointing away from the tub when you go, so the next person does not climb into scalding water.

Runoff from the springs spreads into small pools downhill, where goldfish have lived for years. There are no toilets, no drinking water and no trash service. The BLM calls the site primitive.

Getting there

From Austin, on US 50 (the “Loneliest Road in America”):

1. Drive about 12 miles east on US 50 to the junction with NV-376.
2. Turn south on NV-376 and go about 0.3 miles.
3. Turn left onto the first graded dirt road, signed for Toquima Cave. This is NF-001.
4. Follow it about 5.5 miles to a junction, bear left, and continue about 1.4 miles to the springs.

The whole trip is about 18-19 miles and takes around 30 minutes. In dry weather most vehicles can make it, though the road is rough in places and there are a few side tracks. After rain or snowmelt the dirt can turn greasy and soft, and low cars may struggle. You can park within a few steps of the tubs.

Austin is the last place for fuel, food and supplies. Eureka is about 60 miles further east on US 50.

When to go

Spring and fall are the most pleasant times. Days are mild and nights are cold, which is ideal for a hot tub in the open.

Winter is quiet and often spectacular, with steam rising off the tubs and snow on the Toiyabe Range. It also brings freezing nights and occasional mud or snow on the access road, so check the weather.

Summer is hot at midday. Soak early or after sunset, when the valley cools and the sky fills with stars.

The site is open 24 hours a day, year-round. Weekends and holidays can bring a few groups of campers, but it rarely feels crowded by city standards.

Rules and etiquette

• Free, no permit. There is no fee to soak or camp.
• Camp at least 100 yards from water. Travel Nevada says camping on the spring source is not allowed. This is the only water for wildlife in a dry basin.
• Share the tubs. If people are waiting, keep your soak reasonable.
• Reset the pipe. When you leave, turn the inflow away so the next visitor finds a tub at a safe temperature.
• Use existing fire rings only, and check current BLM fire restrictions before lighting anything.
• Pack it out. The BLM has held volunteer cleanups here to remove trash and graffiti, and a 2025 cleanup day also set out to replace fire rings that were not working. Leave the site cleaner than you found it.
• No soap or shampoo in the tubs or runoff.
• Clothing: There is no posted clothing rule. Bring a suit, since the tubs are close to the road and to camps.

Where to stay nearby

• At the springs: Free primitive camping on the surrounding BLM land, first come, first served. There is room for tents and trailers, and a few metal fire rings. Respect the 100-yard buffer from the water.
• Toquima Cave Campground (Humboldt-Toiyabe National Forest) is about 11 miles away, further along the road toward Toquima Cave.
• Austin has a small number of motels and rentals. Eureka, about 60 miles east of the springs, has more choices.

Safety notes

• Scalding source: The vents and the channels right below them are far too hot to touch. Keep children and dogs well away from them.
• Test every time. Tub temperatures change quickly depending on the pipe. Check with your hand before getting in.
• Head above water. As at any hot spring, do not submerge your head.
• Remote but not too remote: Austin is half an hour away, but cell coverage is patchy. Carry water and a spare tire.
• Wildlife: The Hickison wild burro herd roams the Big Smoky area. Give burros space and keep food packed away.

Nearby stops worth adding

Toquima Cave is about a 30-minute drive east into the Toquima Range. The Western Shoshone used it as a temporary shelter roughly 1,500 to 3,000 years ago, and it holds red, black, yellow and white pictographs. Austin itself, a 19th-century mining town on US 50, is worth a walk before you head out.