Sturlungalaug (Guðmundarlaug)

What to expect

Sturlungalaug is a pair of natural hot pools in Hnappadalur, the valley at the eastern end of the Snæfellsnes peninsula in West Iceland. It is on the land of the farm Syðri-Rauðamelur, tucked behind a small hill south-east of the crater Syðri-Rauðamelskúla. Some guides also call it Guðmundarlaug. No sign points to it, and that keeps it quiet.

The two pools sit side by side in a grassy hollow, with lava fields and the Ljósufjöll mountains around them. The larger one is about 3 by 7 m (10 by 23 ft), big enough for 8 to 10 people. The edges are turf and the bottom is soft mud, so the water turns cloudy as soon as people move about. Guides put the water at about 95 to 104°F35 to 40°C, and OpenStreetMap records the spring at 95°F35°C, so it is a warm soak rather than a hot one.

This is a farm pool, not a facility. There are no toilets, showers or changing rooms. One guide mentions a small hut by a borehole a couple of hundred metres away that people sometimes change in, but do not count on it being open.

Land and access

The track and the pools are on private farmland. Visitors are guests of the farm, and continued access depends on its goodwill. OpenStreetMap tags the pool as private. We found no notice from the landowner banning visitors, and current travel guides describe the route in. Treat that as permission that can be withdrawn. If a sign at the gate says no entry, respect it.

What that means in practice:

• Close every gate behind you, even if you found it open.
• Drive only on the track. Off-road driving is illegal everywhere in Iceland.
• Do not camp on the farmland.
• Take all rubbish home, including tissues and bottle caps.
• Leave if asked, and keep your voice down near the farm buildings.

Getting there

From Borgarnes, follow Route 54 north-west toward Snæfellsnes. Guides put the pools about 40 to 45 km (25 to 28 miles) from Borgarnes.

1. Turn onto Route 55 (Heydalsvegur), the road that leaves Route 54 and runs north through the Heydalur valley.
2. After about 3 km (2 miles), look for the farm sign for Syðri-Rauðamelur at Rauðhálsar and turn onto the gravel farm track.
3. Follow the track for about 6 km (3.7 miles), past the farm and along the north side of the crater, to a small parking area with a gate. The pools are behind the low hill south-east of the crater.

The track is bumpy and can be muddy or flooded after rain or snowmelt, and icy or snowed in during winter. A 4x4 or a high-clearance car is recommended. Do not try it in a normal car in winter. If your car is not up to it, park safely off Route 55 without blocking the track or a gate, and walk in. Allow about an hour each way.

There is no public transport.

When to go

June to August is the practical season, when the track is driest and the days are long. In spring the track can be wet and soft after snowmelt. Winter visits need a suitable 4x4, settled weather and a check of umferdin.is for road conditions and vedur.is for the forecast. Turn back if the track looks worse than your car can handle.

Weekdays and evenings are quieter, though even in summer you may find only a few other people here.

Rules and etiquette

• Free, no attendant. There is nothing to pay.
• Wash if you can. At natural pools Iceland’s naked-shower rule is a courtesy rather than a legal requirement, and there is no shower here. Do not use soap or shampoo in the water.
• Swimsuits are the norm. Change discreetly on the bank or in your car.
• Keep numbers small. The pools are small, and a tour-sized group overwhelms them.
• Do not dig or alter the pools or the channels that feed them.

Where to stay nearby

There is no camping or lodging at the pools.

• Borgarnes, about 40 to 45 km (25 to 28 miles) back down Route 54, has hotels, guesthouses, supermarkets, fuel and a municipal pool.
• Stykkishólmur on the north side of Snæfellsnes and Grundarfjörður further west have hotels, guesthouses and campsites.
• Farm stays and guesthouses line Route 54 along the south side of Snæfellsnes. Book ahead in summer.

Fuel, food and toilets are in Borgarnes, Stykkishólmur and at stops along Route 54.

Safety notes

• Muddy bottom: you cannot see the bottom in the cloudy water. Step in slowly.
• Water quality: unmanaged natural pools in Iceland are not routinely tested. Keep your head above water and do not drink it, and stay out with open cuts.
• The track: check river and mud conditions before committing a small car, and do not drive it in the dark if you are unsure of the route back.
• Remoteness: phone coverage is patchy. Tell someone where you are going, and carry warm layers, water and food.
• Cold after the soak: wind across the open valley cools you quickly once you are out. Have dry clothes ready.

Nearby stops worth adding

Landbrotalaug, a two-person hot pot on the lava plain below Eldborg crater, is about 4.5 km (2.8 miles) to the south-west as the crow flies and easier to reach. Eldborg, the steep-sided crater beside Route 54, has a walking path to its rim, and the basalt columns of Gerðuberg are a short drive west. Borgarhellir, a lava cave, is close to Sturlungalaug according to one guide. For a soak with showers and changing rooms, Lýsuhólslaug on the south coast of Snæfellsnes is a natural-water swimming pool.

See also: Landbrotalaug and Lýsuhólslaug.