Landbrotalaug

What to expect

Landbrotalaug is about as small as a natural hot pot gets. On the plain below Eldborg crater, at the start of the Snæfellsnes peninsula, warm water rises into a round hole in the rock behind a low wall of stones. When you sit in it, the water comes up to your neck. Two people fit comfortably. Three is possible if they know each other well. Iceland Review calls it a two-person pot, and that is accurate.

A little further on, across a small pond, is a second, wider pool. It is fed by a hose from the hot source and is shallow, so when you sit down the water covers little more than your legs. It takes several people at once and acts as the overflow when the main pot is full.

Water temperature is usually given as about 100°F38°C. One recent guide puts the range at roughly 97-104°F36-40°C, depending on where you sit and how the spring is running that day. That makes it a comfortable, long soak rather than a scalding one.

The setting is flat, open lava and moss with mountains to the north and the cone of Eldborg in view. There are no buildings at the pool, no attendant, and nothing for sale.

Getting there

The pool is in Hnappadalur, on the stretch of Route 54 between Borgarnes and the Snæfellsnes peninsula.

• From Reykjavík: Drive Route 1 north to Borgarnes, about 75 km (47 miles). Turn left onto Route 54 toward Snæfellsnes and follow it for about 40 km (25 miles). The whole trip is about 115-120 km (71-75 miles) and takes about 1 hour 45 minutes.
• The turn-off: The turning is past Eldborg crater, near the junction with Route 55 (Heydalsvegur), turn left onto a gravel side road signed Stóra-Hraun. There is no sign for Landbrotalaug, which is the main reason people miss it.
• From Stykkishólmur: Allow 45 minutes to an hour, coming back east along the peninsula to Route 54.

The side road is rough and potholed in places. A normal car can manage it in summer if you take it slowly. In winter, check conditions on road.is first, as the track can be icy or muddy. Drive only on the track. Off-road driving is illegal in Iceland and damages the moss for decades.

The car park at the end is a small patch of gravel with room for about 5 to 10 cars. From there, walk a few minutes to the right along the path. You cross a stream, often on stepping stones, and the ground is rocky and uneven. The pot is behind its stone wall and is not visible from the car park. Waterproof shoes help.

When to go

You can soak here all year, but a few things shape the timing.

• Summer (June to August): Easy driving, a dry path and light around the clock. It is also the busiest time, and the main pot can have a queue at midday.
• Spring and autumn (March to May, September to October): Quieter, cooler and a better bet for having the pot to yourself. Guides give March to October as the main bathing season.
• Winter (November to February): Possible northern lights and snow on the lava, but the side road, the stream crossing and the path can be icy or muddy. Go only in settled weather and in daylight for the walk in.

With room for two, timing matters more here than almost anywhere. Arrive early in the morning or late in the evening, and avoid weekend afternoons in summer.

Rules and etiquette

There is no warden, but the pool depends on the landowner’s goodwill. Access to other hot pots in Iceland has been closed after visitors left a mess, so behave as if this is your last chance to use it.

• Swimsuits on. It is on a farm, near a road, and others will be waiting.
• Keep it short when people are waiting. Twenty minutes in the main pot is plenty on a busy day. Move to the shallow pool or let others in.
• No soap, shampoo or sunscreen in the water. The pot is tiny and the water does not change quickly.
• Do not move rocks or dig. The stone wall and the pot are what make it work.
• Take everything away, including bottle caps and tissue. There are no bins.
• No camping, and stay on the track and the path. Follow any signs the landowner puts up and leave if asked.
• Keep the noise down. It is a quiet farming area.

Where to stay nearby

There is no camping or lodging at the pool.

• Borgarnes: About 40 km (25 miles) back down Route 54, with hotels, guesthouses, supermarkets, fuel and a municipal pool.
• Stykkishólmur: The harbour town on the north side of Snæfellsnes, 45 minutes to an hour away, with hotels, a campsite and the Baldur ferry to the Westfjords.
• South Snæfellsnes: Guesthouses and farm stays line Route 54 further west toward Arnarstapi and Hellnar. Book ahead in summer.

Safety notes

• Footing: The walk crosses a stream and uneven, rocky ground, and the bottom of the pot is rock. Water shoes or sandals are a good idea.
• Heat: At around 100°F38°C the main pot is mild, but stay hydrated and get out if you feel dizzy.
• Water quality: The water is natural and untreated, with many bathers in a small space. Keep your head above water and do not drink it.
• No supervision: You are on your own. Do not leave children unattended near the water, and do not soak alone after drinking.
• Weather: The plain is exposed to wind. Bring warm clothes and a dry layer for the walk back to the car.

Nearby stops worth adding

Eldborg, the neat, steep-sided crater you see from the pool, is a protected natural monument with a walking path to its rim. Close by, the Gerðuberg cliffs are a long wall of tall, regular basalt columns. Sturlungalaug, another small natural pool, is in the same area; see our Sturlungalaug page. Further along Route 54, Ytri Tunga beach is known for seals on the rocks, mostly in summer, and the villages of Arnarstapi and Hellnar have a cliff path with sea arches. For a full swim with showers, Lýsuhólslaug on the south coast of the peninsula is a geothermal pool with showers and changing rooms.