Strútslaug

What to expect

Strútslaug is a natural hot pool in the southern Fjallabak highlands, in the Hólmsárbotnar valley at the headwaters of the Hólmsá river. It lies between two ice caps, Torfajökull to the north and Mýrdalsjökull to the south, in a landscape of green moss, black sand and bare hills. It is sometimes called Hólmsárbotnalaug after the valley.

There is nothing built here. Hot water seeps out beside a glacial stream into a shallow, grass-lined pool. One guide gives the main pool as about 8.5 by 5 m (28 by 16 ft) and about 50 cm (20 in) deep, with a smaller pool beside it, so you lie back rather than swim. The bottom is soft. River water mixes in at the edges, which means the temperature varies from spot to spot. The same guide reports 99 to 109°F37 to 43°C, hottest at the source.

Útivist, the Icelandic touring association that runs the nearby hut, calls it “the famous Strútslaug”. It is famous among hikers because it takes real effort to reach. You will rarely share it with more than a handful of people, and on a quiet day you may have it to yourself.

Getting there

This is a highland trip. Plan for F-roads, river crossings and a walk.

Step 1: drive to Strútsskáli. Strútsskáli (Strútur hut) is Útivist’s hut on Mælifellssandur, north of Mýrdalsjökull, at about N63°50.330 W18°58.477. Both approaches are F-roads, open only in summer and only to 4x4 vehicles:

• From the west on F210 (Fjallabaksleið syðri): cross Mælifellssandur and turn left at the crossroads at N63°48.023 W18°57.351.
• From the east on F232 (Öldufellsleið): head north toward Mælifell and turn right at the same crossroads.

These roads have unbridged rivers and soft sand, and conditions change from week to week. Check umferdin.is and road.is before you set off. Check what your rental terms say about river crossings before you go. If you have not forded a glacial river before, go with a guided super jeep or hiking tour instead.

Step 2: walk to the pool. From the hut, a marked route runs north for about 5 km (3 miles) to Strútslaug, roughly 1 to 1.5 hours each way, with small streams to cross. Allow 3 to 4 hours for the round trip with a soak. Get a map from the hut warden.

On the Strútsstígur trek. Útivist runs the Strútsstígur as a four-day trek from Hólaskjól to Hvanngil across southern Fjallabak, with luggage carried between huts. On day two, a 20 to 24 km (12 to 15 mile) walk of 7 to 8 hours from Álftavötn along the Syðri-Ófæra and through Hólmsárbotnar, hikers stop at Strútslaug for a bath before ending at Strútsskáli. The 2026 trips ran in July and early August.

There is no public transport to Strútsskáli.

When to go

July and August are the realistic months. The F-roads usually open between late June and early July, depending on snow, and close with the first autumn storms. Útivist’s hut warden is on site from early July to mid-August. Early September can still work, but snow and cold can arrive fast.

Weather is the main risk. Fog can hide the route and the hills, rain raises the rivers quickly, and wind on Mælifellssandur can carry sand hard enough to sting. Check vedur.is, register your plans on safetravel.is and turn back if visibility drops.

Rules and etiquette

There is no fee and no staff. Follow Icelandic wild-pool habits and the rules for the highlands:

• Wash before you get in if you can. At natural pools the naked shower is a courtesy, not law, and here there is no shower at all, so at least rinse off at the hut. Do not use soap or shampoo in the pool.
• Stay on the marked path and keep off the moss. Highland moss is easily damaged and slow to grow back.
• Do not dig, dam or alter the pool.
• Take every scrap of rubbish out with you. There are no bins or toilets at the pool.
• Off-road driving is illegal everywhere in Iceland. Keep to marked tracks.
• Camping: use the campsite at Strútsskáli rather than pitching tents by the pool.
• Swimsuits are the norm. You change on the bank, so bring a large towel or a changing robe.

Where to stay nearby

Strútsskáli sleeps 26 and has a campsite, toilets, showers and a kitchen with a gas stove and grill. Útivist’s 2026 prices for non-members: ISK 12,900 per bed per night (overnight tax included), ISK 2,500 to camp plus a ISK 400 per tent overnight tax, and ISK 1,000 for a shower. Members pay about half. Children up to 6 sleep free in the hut and ages 7 to 17 pay half. A non-refundable deposit of ISK 2,000 per person per night applies. Note that the hut is closed to other guests while Útivist’s own base-camp groups are staying.

Other huts on the wider route include Álftavötn (Útivist) and Hólaskjól to the east, and Hvanngil to the west on the Laugavegur trail. In the lowlands, Vík and the farms of Skaftártunga have hotels and guesthouses.

Safety notes

• River crossings: the most serious hazard, on the drive and in a smaller way on the walk. Glacial rivers rise during warm afternoons and after rain. Cross at marked fords, check the depth on foot first, and never cross in a hurry.
• Hot water: test the water near the source before you sit down. It can be hotter than it looks.
• Remoteness: there is weak or no phone signal at the pool. Tell someone your plan, carry food, water, warm layers and a map or GPS, and register on safetravel.is.
• Water quality: wild pools in Iceland are not tested routinely. Keep your head above water and do not drink it.
• Weather: turn back in fog or storms. Hypothermia is a real risk once you leave warm water in wind and rain.

Nearby stops worth adding

From Strútsskáli, Útivist suggests day hikes up Strútur itself, into the Krókagil gorge and Strútsgil, and toward Torfajökull. Mælifell, the green cone that stands alone on the black sands, is close by. North of Torfajökull, Landmannalaugar has an easier natural hot pool by a hut, also in the Fjallabak highlands and also reached only by summer F-roads.

See also: Landmannalaugar Hot Spring.