Pozza di Leonardo

Which pool this is

The name trips people up, so first the decision. There are free thermal pools in Tuscany at Bagno Vignoni and Petriolo, but “Pozza di Leonardo” (also called the Vasca di Leonardo or the terme libere di Bormio) is the free pool in the Alta Valtellina, below the historic Bagni Vecchi of Bormio. Local guides, Italian newspapers and OpenStreetMap all use the name for this spot, and we found no source that uses it for the Tuscan pools. The other four slugs in this batch are QC Terme sites, two of them a few hundred metres away, which fits. The Tuscan free pools have their own pages: Terme Libere di Bagno Vignoni and Terme di Petriolo.

What to expect

The pool is a stone-lined basin on a rock ledge in the gorge below the Bagni Vecchi, with the river running below it and conifer forest on the slopes. Warm water pours in from a pipe in the rock face. According to Il Giorno, it is surplus thermal water that comes down from the baths above, where it is not otherwise used. The flow is constant, so the basin keeps refilling and spilling over.

Bormio’s springs are hyperthermal, sulphate-rich, alkaline and earthy, with traces of radon. There are nine of them, at roughly 99-109°F37-43°C depending on the season. By the time the water reaches the pool it is a little cooler. A local guide from August 2026 puts it at about 97-104°F36-40°C, while a 2017 account calls it just over 104°F40°C. That is hot enough for steam on a winter morning and warm enough to stay in for a while.

Older descriptions mention two pools on different levels, and OpenStreetMap marks a second “upper” pool a short way up the gorge. The main lower pool is the one most people mean. It used to hold four or five people; Il Giorno reported in 2023 that someone had added a small concrete wall that let around twenty fit in, and that forestry police reported it to the Sondrio prosecutor as unauthorised building work. On a busy day you will be sharing with strangers.

Nothing is provided. No changing room, toilet, shower, drinking water, bin or staff. It is a wild pool in a national park, with all the freedom and all the risk that comes with that.

Getting there

Bormio is at the top of the Valtellina in the province of Sondrio, about 200 km (125 miles) north-east of Milan by road via Lecco and the SS38. From the centre of Bormio, take the road toward Livigno (the SS301, which also leads to the Bagni Nuovi). Recent directions say to stop a few hairpin bends above town where cars are pulled in on the right-hand side, heading toward Livigno, and look for a footpath closed to vehicles, marked by walls covered in graffiti. Parked cars are usually the giveaway. An older route started from behind the Bagni Vecchi building on the Stelvio road (SS38), so you may see people coming from both directions.

There is no formal car park. Do not block the road, hairpins or private drives.

From the road it is a few hundred metres, around 10 minutes on foot. The path drops through the woods toward the river, then follows a narrow walkway along the rock with no railing. Il Giorno describes a stretch with a drop of 3 to 4 metres to the river; a 2017 guide warns of drops of several dozen metres in places. Wear proper shoes and walk it slowly.

By public transport, buses from Milan and Sondrio reach Bormio, and local buses stop at the Bagni Vecchi on the Stelvio road and at Molina on the SS301 near the Bagni Nuovi.

When to go

Summer is the easiest season. The path is dry, the days are long and you can cool off in the cold river between soaks, as many locals do. It also brings the most visitors.

Spring and autumn are quieter but wetter. Rain makes the path muddy and the river can run high.

Winter is the most atmospheric, with snow on the rocks and thick steam, and it is also when the path is most dangerous. Ice on an unfenced ledge above a river is a real hazard. The pool is often crowded during the ski season peaks.

Whatever the season, the pool is small, so arrive early on a weekday if you want space.

Rules and etiquette

There are no posted opening hours and no fee. The practical rules come from common sense and the fact that this is inside the Stelvio National Park:

• Wear a swimsuit. This is a public place in Italy, not a clothing-optional spring.
• No soap, shampoo or sunscreen in the water.
• Carry out everything you bring. Littering is one of the reasons the authorities have talked about closing access.
• Do not move stones or build up the pool. The 2023 concrete wall ended up as a criminal complaint.
• Avoid going at night. Il Giorno reported people visiting after dark, and that is exactly when the path is most likely to cause a fall.
• Check for notices. A 2026 guide stresses checking for local orders or temporary bans before you go, since online descriptions can lag behind.

Status

We found no ordinance closing the pool as of October 2026, and two local guides published in 2026 describe it as accessible. The 2023 report said the aim was to shut off access to prevent falls into the river and stop people leaving rubbish, but it did not cite a signed order. If you find fencing or a sign at the path, respect it.

Where to stay nearby

The pool sits between Bormio’s two historic spa hotels. The QC Hotel Bagni Vecchi is right above the gorge, and the QC Grand Hotel Bagni Nuovi is about 0.7 km (0.4 miles) away in a straight line. Both come with access to a full thermal spa: see QC Bagni Nuovi Bormio and QC Terme Bagni Vecchi. Bormio town, about 3 km (1.9 miles) away, has hotels, apartments and restaurants at every price, and is a ski resort in winter.

Safety notes

• The path is the main danger. Narrow, unfenced and above a river. Do not go on ice, in fog or after dark, and do not go alone if you can help it.
• Water quality is not monitored like a licensed spa. Keep your head above the water and skip it with open cuts.
• Heat. At 100-104°F38-40°C long soaks can make you light-headed. A 2017 guide suggests a short cold dip afterwards to avoid a sudden drop in blood pressure; at the very least, get out slowly and sit for a minute before walking back.
• The river is cold and fast. If you cool off in it, stay at the edge.
• Mountain weather. Bormio sits at over 1,200 m (3,900 ft). Bring a warm layer even in summer.