Alvord Hot Springs

What to expect

Alvord Hot Springs sits at the foot of Steens Mountain on the west edge of the Alvord Desert, one of the emptiest corners of Oregon. The springs are on the Alvord Ranch, which the Davis family has owned and worked for more than 50 years, and the soaking area is run as a small private campground rather than a wild site.

The setup is simple. Two concrete pools, built in the 1940s and patched and modernized since, sit side by side with decking and benches around them. One is covered by a weathered roof of wood and corrugated metal. The other is open, so you can lie back and watch the stars, or look straight out across the flat white playa. Spring water comes out of the ground at about 170°F77°C, according to the owners, and is piped and cooled before it reaches the pools. Wikipedia, citing older guidebooks, puts the soaking water at around 105°F41°C, but the temperature shifts with how the inflow is set, so test it before you get in.

The water has a mild sulfur smell. Runoff from the springs drains out onto the desert, which is why the ground just northwest of the property stays soft.

Since 2013, when the old free-for-all era ended, the site has had a caretaker, a parking area, a small general store that sells snacks, beer and wine, bathrooms, showers, campsites and a row of bunkhouses. It is still rustic. Do not expect a spa.

Getting there

The springs are on East Steens Road (also called the Fields-Denio Road), a county road that runs along the east side of Steens Mountain. The address is 36095 E Steens Road, Princeton, OR 97721.

• From Burns: Take Highway 78 southeast for about 65 miles, then turn right onto East Steens Road and drive about 41 miles south and west. The springs are on the right. The BLM uses the same route for the playa, which you reach a little farther on via the Frog Springs access road.
• From Fields: Drive about 23 miles north on the Fields-Denio Road. The first stretch out of Fields is paved, then it turns to gravel.

Burns is the last full-service town on the northern approach. Fill the tank and buy groceries there. Fields, to the south, has a station with food and fuel, but check its hours before you rely on it. The gravel road is usually fine for a normal car in dry weather, but it is washboarded in places and the owners suggest calling for current conditions. Do not drive onto the lakebed after rain. The BLM warns that the fine clay turns slick and sticky when even slightly wet, and towing from out here is expensive.

When you arrive, check in at the office. That is where you get the gate code, information about camping on the lakebed, and day passes for the Pike Creek trail.

When to go

The BLM says the Alvord Desert is open year-round but that June through November is usually the best window, when the playa is dry enough to drive and camp on.

Summer days are hot and exposed, and a 105°F41°C pool is less appealing at 3 pm in July than at 10 pm. Spring and fall bring cooler days, cold nights and the best soaking. Winter is quiet and often very cold, and storms can make the gravel roads slow.

Weekends and summer fill up first. The bunkhouses go fast, and the owners say a 2- or 3-night minimum may apply at times. If you only want a day soak, weekdays give you the best chance of being let in.

Prices and booking

Alvord Hot Springs is private, and the rules are the owners’. Rates are not posted on the website, and figures on travel blogs vary by a wide margin, so call (541) 589-2282 or email [email protected] to confirm prices and space.

• Day use: Allowed during normal business hours, but the operator asks day visitors to call first. Turn up unannounced on a busy weekend and you may be turned away.
• Camping: Sites near the pools and across the property, most with a picnic table and fire ring. RVs are fine but there are no hookups.
• Bunkhouses: Each sleeps up to four and has beds, an outlet, a light, heat, an outdoor picnic table and a fire ring. Bring your own sheets or sleeping bag.
• Children: 12 and under stay free.
• Pets: Allowed at no charge if they are leashed, not aggressive and never left alone. You sign a pet policy at check-in, and the owners may take a pet deposit.
• Cancellations: A fee applies. Ask for the terms when you book.

Clothing is the one rule nobody agrees on. Many guides call Alvord clothing optional, while others say it is not, and the owners describe the place as family-oriented. Pack a swimsuit and take your cue from the caretaker.

Before you build a fire, check current BLM fire restrictions for the area. Summer bans are common in this part of the state.

Where to stay nearby

The easiest base is the hot springs itself. A bunkhouse or campsite means you can soak at any hour.

• Alvord Desert playa: The BLM allows dispersed camping on and around the playa, with no fee and no designated sites. The only facility is a vault toilet at Frog Springs. Bring your own water and shade, and stake everything down because the wind is strong.
• Fields: About 23 miles south, with food and fuel at the Fields Station. Check its hours before you count on it.
• Frenchglen and the Steens Mountain Loop: On the west side of Steens Mountain, a long drive around by road, with the historic Frenchglen Hotel and BLM campgrounds such as Page Springs.
• Burns: The closest town with a full range of motels and services.

Safety notes

• Hot water: The source is far too hot to touch, and the pools can run hot when the inflow is open. Check the temperature with your hand, keep soaks short and drink water, especially in summer.
• Remoteness: There is no reliable cell service on the playa and the nearest hospital is in Burns. Carry extra water, food and a full spare tire.
• The lakebed: Stay off any part of the playa that looks damp, and avoid the northwest section near the springs, where creek and spring runoff keeps the mud soft. Getting stuck out here is slow and expensive to fix.
• Wind and heat: Afternoon wind can flatten tents and blow gear away, and there is almost no natural shade.

Nearby stops worth adding

Pike Creek Trail starts about 2 miles from the springs and climbs into the canyon on the east face of Steens Mountain, about 5.6 miles out and back. The route crosses ranch land, so pick up a wilderness day pass at the Alvord office before you go. Mickey Hot Springs, on BLM land about 15 miles northeast of the playa, has steam vents, mud pots and boiling pools. They are too hot to soak in, but worth the side trip to look. Borax Lake, near Fields, is a hot lake protected as a biological reserve, so it is for viewing only.