White Sulphur Springs

What to expect

White Sulphur Springs is about as far from a road as an Alaska hot spring gets. It sits on the northern shore of Bertha Bay on the outer coast of Chichagof Island, roughly 65 miles northwest of Sitka, inside the West Chichagof-Yakobi Wilderness of the Tongass National Forest. Spruce and hemlock forest runs down to rocky cliffs, and the open North Pacific breaks below.

The spring feeds a small wooden bathhouse with a warm pool inside and an outdoor warm pool beside it that faces the ocean. The Forest Service does not publish a water temperature, and travel listings describe it only as warm, so arrive expecting a pleasant soak rather than a scalding one. The bathhouse closed for a time over safety concerns. The Forest Service now says it has reopened after temporary stabilization that should keep the building safe for roughly the next 3 to 5 years.

About 50 feet away is the White Sulphur Springs Cabin, a 12 by 14 foot Pan Abode style Forest Service cabin rebuilt in 2012. It is the only shelter here. The springs themselves are public and free, and fishing boats, kayakers and sailors anchor nearby to use them, so even with the cabin booked you will probably share the pool.

Getting there

There is no road, and helicopter landings are prohibited in this wilderness. Plan on a boat.

• Anchorage: Most boats anchor in the west arm of Mirror Harbor. The Forest Service recommends local knowledge before entering, since the coast is exposed and rocky. Porcupine Bay is another anchorage, with a skiff ride to the cabin.
• The trail: From Mirror Harbor, the White Sulphur Springs Trail runs about 0.9 miles along Bertha Bay through spruce and hemlock. It is fairly level but often muddy, so bring rubber boots. Check tide tables before you land a skiff.
• Charters: Water taxis and fishing charters run from Pelican, the nearest town, and from Sitka. Some floatplane charters also serve the area. Ask operators about landing options and weather limits.
• Kayak: Experienced sea kayakers reach the springs along the outer coast, but this is open ocean with swell and few landings.

Pelican is a floatplane hop from Juneau, and Sitka has jet service. Allow spare days on both ends for weather.

When to go

The springs are open year-round and the cabin rate is the same in every season. May to September is the practical window, with longer days and calmer seas, though outer-coast weather can turn any week of the year. Expect rain. Fall storms make crossings rough, and in winter, short days and big swells make this a trip only for experienced mariners.

Summer weekends bring the most boats. Midweek in June or early September is a good bet for a quieter pool.

Rules and etiquette

• Free and shared. Anyone may use the bathhouse and pools at any hour. Cabin guests do not have exclusive rights.
• Clothing. There is no posted clothing rule. Swimsuits are common when strangers share the pool, and some people soak nude when they are alone. Follow the lead of whoever is there.
• Camping. If you are not staying in the cabin, camp at least 200 feet from it. Wilderness rules apply: no motorized equipment ashore, leave no trace and pack out all trash and food.
• Keep the water clean. No soap or shampoo in the pools.
• Mind the cabin. It is only 50 feet away, and the Forest Service warns its guests that the springs can be noisy, so keep voices down late at night.

Alaska Region orders on Tongass land ban possessing or drinking alcohol in violation of Alaska state law (which sets the drinking age at 21) and ban possession of marijuana.

Where to stay nearby

White Sulphur Springs Cabin is the obvious base. The Forest Service lists it at $60 per night in both seasons, booked on Recreation.gov, with a 7-night maximum. It has plywood bunks (Recreation.gov says it sleeps six; the Forest Service page says four, so check the listing), a table and benches, a cooking counter, a wood stove, an axe and an outhouse. Bring sleeping pads, bags, cookware, food and water. Firewood can be scarce.

Otherwise, sleep on your boat in Mirror Harbor or camp in the wilderness more than 200 feet from the cabin. Pelican is the nearest town with services for the nights before and after. Lake Elfendahl and Lake Morris are about a 2-hour hike northeast if you want a day out from the springs.

Safety notes

• Brown bears: Brown bears frequent the area. Carry bear spray, cook and store food away from where you sleep, and make noise on the trail.
• Water: There is no reliable drinking water. Treat or boil everything, and carry extra because soaking dehydrates you.
• Weather and remoteness: The Forest Service warns that bad weather can extend your stay. Carry spare food, fuel and medication, and file a trip plan with someone in Sitka or Pelican. There is no cell service.
• Cold: Even in summer, rain and wind off the Pacific can chill you fast after a soak. Bring warm, dry layers for the walk back to the boat.
• Old structure: The bathhouse is stabilized, not rebuilt. Watch your footing on wet boards.
• Green crab: Invasive European green crab has turned up in southern Southeast Alaska. The Forest Service asks visitors to report sightings.

Nearby stops worth adding

Tenakee Hot Springs is on the inner, eastern side of the same island and has a historic town bathhouse you can reach by ferry. Boaters doing a loop of Southeast Alaska often add Baranof Warm Springs on Baranof Island, south across Peril Strait. Low tide along Bertha Bay exposes a wide range of seaweed and tidepool life worth a slow walk.