Shepherd Hot Springs

What to expect

Shepherd Hot Springs is one of the cluster of soaking tubs scattered across Long Valley, the broad sagebrush basin east of Mammoth Lakes that sits inside the Long Valley Caldera. It is a single man-made tub of rock and concrete, roughly 2 feet deep, with ledges built into the sides that work as benches. Four people fit comfortably. Five or six can squeeze in if everyone is friendly.

Hot water reaches the tub through a pipe from a natural source about 150 feet away. That source runs at over 135°F57°C, so the inflow is far too hot to put a hand under. A valve on the pipe controls the flow. Open it to warm the tub, close it to let the water cool. The tub temperature on any given day depends on who adjusted the valve last and how cold the air is, which is why you should always check before you climb in.

The appeal is the view. The tub sits at about 6,950 feet in open country with nothing between you and the Sierra Nevada to the west. On a clear evening the peaks turn pink and the valley goes quiet apart from cattle and wind. There is no shade, no building and no facilities: no toilet, no changing area, no trash can and no drinking water.

Getting there

Long Valley is on US-395 between Mammoth Lakes and Bishop.

• From Mammoth Lakes: Drive south on US-395 and turn left onto Benton Crossing Road, the turn marked by a small green church. Coming north from Bishop, the turn is on the right.
• Benton Crossing Road: Follow it about 1.1 miles northeast, crossing a couple of cattle guards.
• Whitmore Tubs Road: Turn left onto this gravel road and drive about 2 miles.
• The spur: Turn right onto a small unmarked dirt road, just before a lone tree, and follow it about half a mile to the parking area at its end. The tub is a short walk from there.

Allow about 20 minutes from Mammoth Lakes. In dry weather most passenger cars can make it if driven slowly. After rain or snowmelt the spur gets soft and rutted, and a high-clearance or four-wheel-drive vehicle is the safer choice. Several dirt tracks cross the area, and they are not well signed, so load the location into an offline map before you leave pavement.

When to go

Late spring through fall is the easy season. Roads are dry and passable, and the long evenings are good for sunset soaks. Expect bugs near the wetter ground in early summer.

Weekends and holidays are busy. Long Valley tubs are popular with Mammoth visitors, and this one holds only a handful of people. Weekday mornings give you the best chance of having it to yourself. Sunset is beautiful but crowded.

Winter is possible but unreliable. The springs do not close, yet snow often buries the dirt roads, and the spur may be impassable for days at a time. If you try it, check conditions in Mammoth first and be prepared to turn around. Some visitors park on paved Benton Crossing Road and walk or snowshoe in, which is a long way to carry towels.

Rules and etiquette

There is no fee and no staff. The tub works because users look after it.

• Clothing is optional. Nudity is common at Long Valley tubs. Bring a suit if you prefer.
• Share the tub. It is small. If people are waiting, keep your soak to about 45 minutes and then make room.
• Leave the valve sensibly. Do not leave it wide open when you go, or the next person arrives to scalding water. Do not leave it shut on a cold day either.
• No soap or shampoo. The tub drains slowly and residue builds up.
• No glass.
• Pack out everything, including food scraps, cans and toilet paper. There are no trash cans.
• Respect the land. Stay on existing tracks, keep off soft meadow ground, and give the free-ranging cattle room.
• No camping at the tub. Park, soak and move on.

Where to stay nearby

• Brown’s Owens River Campground, about 5 miles away, is the closest established campground. It is seasonal, usually open in the warmer months.
• Dispersed camping is allowed on some federal land in Long Valley, but not at or around the tubs. Land here is a mix of Bureau of Land Management, Forest Service and Los Angeles Department of Water and Power ground, and LADWP land around neighbouring Crab Cooker does not allow camping. Look for posted signs, and if in doubt, ask the Inyo National Forest office.
• Mammoth Lakes, about 12 miles west, has the nearest hotels, condos, groceries and fuel.
• Convict Lake and McGee Creek, both a short drive south on US-395, have campgrounds in summer.

Safety notes

• Very hot inflow. Source water over 135°F57°C can scald in seconds. Never put a hand or foot under the pipe. Mix the tub and test it before getting in.
• Know your limits. At nearly 7,000 feet, combined with hot water, people get light-headed faster than they expect. Drink water, skip the alcohol and get out slowly.
• Roads. Soft dirt can trap cars after storms. Carry water, a shovel and warm clothes in winter.
• Weather. Afternoon thunderstorms roll across Long Valley in summer. An open tub on flat ground is no place to be when lightning is close.
• Sun and cold. There is no shade. In winter, air temperatures drop sharply after sunset, so keep dry clothes close.
• Car security. Do not leave valuables visible at the parking area.

Nearby stops worth adding

Crab Cooker Hot Springs is about half a mile away and reachable on foot along sandy social trails. It is another small stone tub fed from a hot source. Hilltop Hot Springs, a little farther east off Benton Crossing Road, has a boardwalk to its tub. Stay on the boardwalk there, since the hillside is sensitive habitat. The Hot Creek Geological Site near the airport is worth a look for its boiling pools and blue water, but soaking and swimming are no longer allowed there.