Mangatainoka Hot Springs

What to expect

Mangatainoka Hot Springs is the reward at the end of one of the North Island’s classic hot spring tramps. It sits on a small manuka terrace beside the Mohaka River, deep in Kaweka Forest Park, a few hours’ walk upstream from the road end at Makahu Road.

The Department of Conservation (DOC) has built three tubs into a timber deck here. Each one has valves, so you can let in more hot water, cool it down or drain the tub when you leave. That makes it more comfortable than most wild springs: you can set your own temperature rather than taking what the ground gives you. Wilderness magazine reported that the springs closed for renovations in late 2020 and reopened in time for that summer. Older descriptions mention two fibreglass tubs fed by a pipe from a small waterfall, so be wary of out-of-date photos.

There is a campsite right next to the pools. Te Puia Lodge, a DOC hut, is 45 minutes back downstream. DOC does not publish a water temperature for the tubs, and the valves mean it varies from visit to visit.

Do not confuse this place with Mangatutu Hot Springs, the roadside spring at the start of the track, or with the Mangatainoka River near Pahiatua. Some notes place Mangatainoka in the Kaimanawa ranges. DOC’s track page, its public conservation land layer and OpenStreetMap all put it in Kaweka Forest Park, in the Hastings District of Hawke’s Bay.

Getting there

The drive: Makahu Road is about 75 km (47 miles) north-west of Napier. Take Puketitiri Road for 40 km (25 miles), turn right onto Pakaututu Road, and Makahu Road is 9 km (5.6 miles) along on the left. Allow about an hour on unsealed gravel. The road is steep and narrow in places, slippery when wet, and crosses a river ford 7.5 km (4.7 miles) from the end that rises after heavy rain or snowmelt. DOC says it is not suitable for caravans or campervans and recommends a 4WD for park roads. Hastings District Council posts road closures.

The track: Park at The Gums parking area and shelter at the road end, about 500 m from Mangatutu Hot Springs and its campsite.

1. The Gums to Te Puia Lodge, 2 to 3 hours. The track runs up the true right of the Mohaka River through its gorge. Rankers describes a steep, rocky section about 1.5 hours in that leads to a viewpoint over the river.
2. Te Puia Lodge to Mangatainoka Hot Springs, 45 minutes. Continue upriver past the turn-off to Makino Hut, cross the bridge over the Makino River, and finish with a steep descent to the pools.

DOC grades it an intermediate tramping track and suggests 1 to 2 days for the trip. Rankers puts the full return walk at about 22 km (14 miles). Wear tramping boots.

When to go

You can go in any season, but conditions on the road and track change a lot.

• Summer (December to February) is warm and settled, with long days. Te Puia Lodge books up on weekends and over the holidays, and its prices are highest from December to February.
• Autumn (March to May) is often the sweet spot: stable weather, cooler nights and fewer people.
• Winter (June to August) can bring brief snowfalls in cold southerlies and strong westerlies. The ford on Makahu Road is more likely to be high. Hut fees are lowest from May to September.

Wasps can be numerous in the warmer months. Wear light-coloured clothing and carry any allergy medication you need.

Rules and etiquette

• Fees: The pools are free. Te Puia Lodge per adult per night (2026): NZ$25 from 1 May to 30 September; NZ$28 on weekdays and NZ$32 on weekends from 1 October to 30 April; NZ$29 weekdays and NZ$34 weekends from 1 December to the end of February. Children 5 to 17 pay half, under 5s are free. Camping at the lodge is NZ$10 per adult and NZ$5 per child, and the DOC Campsite Pass is accepted.
• Booking: Te Puia Lodge must be booked online. Same-day online bookings close at 8pm, phone or visitor centre bookings add a NZ$10 fee, and no spaces are held for walk-ins.
• Dogs: Only with a DOC permit for recreational hunting.
• Private land upriver: The land upriver from the springs is private. Get the landowner’s permission before going further.
• Tub etiquette: Share the tubs, keep soaks short when others are waiting, and use the valves as intended. Drain or adjust only as the signs say, and leave the deck tidy.
• No soap or shampoo in the tubs or the river.
• Pack out everything, including food scraps and toilet paper.

Where to stay nearby

• Mangatainoka Hot Springs Campsite is next to the pools. Carry a tent, stove and all your food.
• Te Puia Lodge, 45 minutes downstream, has mattresses on sleeping platforms, two gas cookers with two hobs each, a woodburner (firewood is flown in, so it is not always there), solar lighting in the kitchen, rainwater from a tank (boil it before drinking) and two long-drop toilets a short walk away. Bring a sleeping bag, cooking gear, toilet paper, a torch and rubbish bags.
• Makino Hut is on a side track that branches off between Te Puia Lodge and the springs. DOC gives 1 hour 30 minutes between Makino Hut and Te Puia Lodge.
• Mangatutu Hot Springs Campsite at the road end has 45 free tent sites, so you can camp the night before and start early. See the Mangatutu Hot Springs listing.

Safety notes

• Amoebic meningitis: Warm geothermal water in New Zealand can carry Naegleria fowleri, which enters through the nose and causes a rare but usually fatal meningitis. Keep your head above water in the tubs.
• River and ford: The Mohaka rises fast after rain, and so does the ford on Makahu Road. Turn back if either looks high.
• Steep ground: The track has steep, rocky sections and a steep drop to the pools. Rankers warns of a narrow spur beyond the Makino bridge that needs care. Take extra time with a heavy pack or in the wet.
• Weather: DOC warns of brief snowfalls in cold southerly and strong westerly weather. Pack warm layers and a rain jacket all year.
• Remoteness: Assume no cell signal. Leave your plans with someone and carry a personal locator beacon.
• Hunters: Kaweka Forest Park is a popular deer hunting area. Wear bright clothing and stay on the track.

Nearby stops worth adding

Mangatutu Hot Springs at the road end is the obvious warm-up or cool-down soak. Its two small pools above the Mohaka are a short walk from the car park, so you can soak before heading home. The Mohaka River also holds rainbow and brown trout if you carry a rod and a fishing licence.