Juntura Hot Springs

What to expect

Juntura Hot Springs is about as plain as a soak gets. Hot water seeps up on a low island in a bend of the Malheur River, and someone long ago walled it in with rocks to make one large pool. Guides describe it as roughly 15 by 30 feet and 2 to 4 feet deep, with a sand and rock bottom and a concrete slab along one edge that makes getting in easier. It is big enough for a crowd, though most days you will share it with a handful of people at most.

The setting is high desert: sagebrush hills, a slow brown river, a few willows. There is no shade to speak of and no development. No toilets, no trash cans, no signs once you leave the highway.

The water is hot. Reports put the source at about 115°F46°C and the main pool anywhere from about 105°F to 115°F41°C to 46°C, and it tracks the weather. On a hot August afternoon it can be too hot to sit in for more than a few minutes. A second, smaller pool at the river’s edge runs cooler, around 105°F41°C or less. You can cool it further by moving a rock to let river water in or by tipping in a bucket of cold water.

Expect a sulfur smell and some algae on the surface of the big pool. The water is not crystal clear.

Getting there

Juntura is a tiny community on US 20 in western Malheur County, about 58 miles east of Burns and 55 miles west of Vale. The springs are about 3 miles northeast of town.

• From Juntura: Drive east on US 20 along the Malheur River. Just past milepost 191, before the highway bridge, turn left (north) onto a dirt road. Any car can manage the first 0.1 miles to the old highway bridge.
• On foot: From the old bridge it is about 0.6 miles to the springs. Walk downstream along the river on an old track for about half a mile to the crossing point, then ford to the island. Visitors have reported orange paint marks pointing the way.
• By high-clearance vehicle: A rougher track leaves US 20 after milepost 192 and runs along the river to the old bridge and then about half a mile further to a parking spot near the ford. Only use it in dry weather with a high-clearance four-wheel-drive vehicle. The dirt roads here turn to sticky mud after rain, and in winter they can be snow and ice covered.

Reports differ on whether the old bridge itself is open to vehicles. One 2018 visitor found it closed. Plan to walk from the highway side and you will not be caught out.

Some older listings send people to Highway 205 instead. That is a different road far to the west, near Burns. Use US 20.

The river crossing

The ford is the part that decides whether you soak. The pool sits on an island, and there is no footbridge.

In late summer and fall, after a dry spell, the Malheur River here can be shallow enough to cross on rocks. Visitors have described it as barely flowing in winter low water. During spring runoff, usually from late winter into early summer, it is a different river: fast, cold and opaque. A visitor in early May 2021 turned back because they could not judge the depth. Do not try it in high water. Wear sandals or water shoes with straps, unbuckle any pack hip belt, and turn around if the water is above your knees and moving fast.

When to go

Late summer through fall is the window most people use. The river is low, the roads are dry, and the nights cool off enough that the pool feels good. Fall hunting seasons bring more people to this part of the county, so you may see hunters camped nearby.

Winter can work if the river stays low and the roads are frozen rather than muddy. The pool is more comfortable when the air is cold, since in summer the water often runs too hot. You will need four-wheel drive and chains on any dirt road.

Spring is the worst time. Snowmelt and runoff often make the ford impassable, and the river bottoms turn to mud.

Rules and etiquette

This is undeveloped Bureau of Land Management land. There is no fee, no permit and no staff. Standard public land rules apply, plus a few habits that keep a pool like this usable:

• Clothing is optional. Nudity is common. Bring a suit if you prefer.
• No soap or shampoo in the pool, including products labeled biodegradable.
• No glass. Broken glass in a sandy bottom pool is a real hazard for bare feet.
• Pack out everything, including other people’s trash if you can manage it. There are no bins.
• Human waste: There are no toilets. Go well away from the river and the pool, and bury or pack out waste.

Where to stay nearby

• Chukar Park Campground (BLM) is the closest developed camp. From Juntura, take Hildah Road northeast for 0.2 miles, then turn left onto Beulah Road and drive about 5.7 miles. It has 19 sites along the North Fork Malheur River, potable water and vault toilets, but no hookups or showers. Sites are first come, first served, at $5 a night, with a 14-day limit. It is open year-round, with a host usually present from late April through November. Mosquitoes can be heavy in spring, and goatheads grow in places, so watch your dog’s paws.
• Dispersed camping is possible on BLM land around the river. Visitors mention a few informal spots near the route to the springs. Keep at least 100 feet from the pool and check for fire restrictions in summer.
• Burns, about 58 miles west on US 20, and Vale, about 55 miles east, have motels, fuel and groceries. Juntura itself has very little in the way of services, so arrive with a full tank.

Safety notes

• Hot water and alcohol: The main pool can reach 115°F46°C. Keep soaks short, drink water, and get out if you feel dizzy. A memorial at the edge of the pool honors a young man who died after a long soak; police suspected alcohol played a part. Skip the beer.
• The ford: Moving water is the biggest risk here. Never cross in high water, at night, or alone in cold conditions.
• Footing: The pool bottom is rock and sand, and the edges are slippery. Water shoes help.
• Remoteness: Help is a long way off. Cell service is patchy at best. Tell someone where you are going and carry extra water, a spare tire and warm layers.
• Roads: The dirt tracks get slick quickly in rain or thaw. If the surface looks wet, walk in from the highway instead of driving.

Nearby stops worth adding

US 20 east of Juntura follows the Malheur River through a quiet canyon toward Harper and Vale, and the drive is worth doing in daylight. To the north, Beulah Road continues past Chukar Park up the North Fork Malheur toward Beulah Reservoir. Chukar Park itself is a pleasant riverside stop for lunch or a walk if you are waiting for the day to cool before a soak.