Jarlslaug (at Grettislaug, Reykir)

Which Jarlslaug this is

Several small Icelandic pools have similar names, so it is worth being precise. This listing is Jarlslaug at Reykir on Reykjaströnd, in Skagafjörður, North Iceland. It is the second of two stone-lined hot pools on the shore beside the better-known Grettislaug. OpenStreetMap places both pools a few metres apart at the end of Reykjastrandarvegur, and the local tourist board lists the site as Reykir, Grettislaug. It is not the Grettislaug swimming pool in Reykhólar in the Westfjords, which shares the name but is a separate municipal pool.

What to expect

Reykir is the last farm on Reykjaströnd, the narrow strip of coast under the cliffs of Tindastóll on the west side of Skagafjörður. Hot water has come out of the ground here for as long as there are records. Until the 20th century there were two springs: Reykjalaug, used for washing laundry, and the smaller Grettislaug. In autumn 1934 a storm pushed a sandbar inland and waves wrecked both of them.

In 1992 the farmer at Reykir, Jón Eiríksson, rebuilt Grettislaug with a stone lining and a breakwater. He was known as Drangeyjarjarl, the Earl of Drangey. The second pool beside it, Jarlslaug (“the earl’s pool”), carries his title. It is a little smaller than Grettislaug, built the same way from stacked stone, and the water is about the same temperature. Grettislaug itself is about 4.5 by 3.75 m and roughly 80 cm deep.

Travel listings put the water at about 102 to 108°F39 to 42°C. It runs a little cooler on cold or windy days. The pools sit right at the top of the beach, so you look straight out across the fjord to Drangey, the flat-topped island where, in Grettis saga, the outlaw Grettir the Strong spent his last years. The saga says he once swam ashore from the island and warmed himself in the hot spring at Reykir.

Facilities are basic. There are changing areas and toilets, and in summer a small café at the farm. Bring your own towel. Sources disagree on whether showers are always available, so be ready for a simple setup.

Getting there

• From Route 1: At Varmahlíð, turn north onto Route 75 to Sauðárkrókur.
• From Sauðárkrókur: Continue north and take Route 748 (Reykjastrandarvegur) along the west shore of the fjord. The road runs under Tindastóll to Reykir, where it ends. The pools are about 16 km (10 miles) north of the town in a straight line, and most of the shore road is gravel.

Drive slowly on the gravel. The road is narrow in places, and in spring and autumn it can be soft after rain. Park at the farm and walk the few steps down to the pools.

There is no public transport to Reykir. Sauðárkrókur, the main town in Skagafjörður, has fuel, shops and the harbour for boats to Drangey.

When to go

The pools are open and staffed in the main season, which one recent guide gives as 1 April to mid-October. A visitor listing gives daily hours of 08:00 to 22:00. Outside the season, access depends on weather and the state of the road, and the pools may be closed. Call before you make a winter trip.

June to August brings long, light evenings, with the sun low over Drangey late at night. Boats to Drangey run from Sauðárkrókur harbour daily from 1 June to 20 August, so you can pair a trip to the island with a soak. September and early October are quieter, with a chance of northern lights on clear nights.

Rules and etiquette

• Pay first. Entry is paid, usually at the café, and one ticket covers both pools. No current price is published online, so ask on arrival or call +354 841 7313.
• Wash before you get in. Icelandic bathing etiquette means showering without your swimsuit before you enter any pool. Use whatever washing facilities are available on site.
• Swimsuits on. This is a public bathing place next to a working farm and campsite.
• No soap in the pools, and no glass.
• Share. Both pools are small. If others are waiting, keep your soak short.
• Leave the beach stones alone. At nearby Glerhallavík, collecting the quartz stones on the shore is prohibited.

Where to stay nearby

• At Reykir: A campsite and guesthouse sit next to the pools. Camping guests have access to the pools as part of their stay.
• Sauðárkrókur: The nearest town has hotels, guesthouses, a campsite and restaurants.
• Varmahlíð: On Route 1 further south, with a hotel and services.

Safety notes

• Sea and weather: The pools are on an exposed shore. Waves can wash over the area in a storm, as they did in 1934. Skip it in rough weather.
• Slippery stones: The rocks around the pools are uneven and wet. Wear sandals.
• Heat: At up to 108°F42°C, the water can make you dizzy after a long drive. Keep soaks short and drink water.
• No lifeguard: Watch children closely in and around the pools and near the water’s edge.
• Gravel road: Take care on Route 748, especially in rain or early and late in the season.

Nearby stops worth adding

Drangey is the obvious one. Drangey Tours leaves Sauðárkrókur marina at 09:30 daily from 1 June to 20 August, with May trips on request. The trip takes about four hours, with a boat ride, a guided climb up a built path and seabird watching on top. Glerhallavík, a cove under the cliffs of Tindastóll near Reykir, is known for its white chalcedony stones, best seen at low tide. Look, but do not take any.