Calistoga Motor Lodge and Spa

What to expect

Calistoga Motor Lodge and Spa sits on Lincoln Avenue in Calistoga, right where the Silverado Trail ends at the north end of the Napa Valley. It began life as a classic 1940s roadside motel, later known as the Sunburst Calistoga. After a full renovation it reopened in 2017 under its current name, with a retro motor-court look, about 50 rooms at the time and plans to add more.

The draw for soakers is the geothermal water. Calistoga sits on top of a hot aquifer, and the lodge pumps that mineral water into three outdoor pools: a warm mineral wading pool, a main swimming pool and a spa whirlpool. Loungers and cabanas ring the pool deck, and the vibe is more poolside hangout than silent spa. Families with kids are common during the day.

Next to the pools is MoonAcre Spa and Baths, the lodge’s spa. It offers massages, body treatments and facials, private clawfoot tubs filled with geothermal water and mineral salts, a co-ed steam room, and a mud treatment called Mud Painting. Note that this is not the classic Calistoga mud bath where you lie submerged in a trough of volcanic ash. Here you brush mineral mud onto your skin and let it dry in the sun.

The property also has Fleetwood, a restaurant serving wood-fired Italian and Mediterranean dishes for breakfast and dinner, with Napa wines, craft beer and cocktails. Guests get free cruiser bikes, bocce and lawn games, outdoor fire pits and Wi-Fi.

The hotel does not publish its pool temperatures. Ask at the front desk if you want to know which pool runs hottest on the day.

Prices and booking

Day passes. Non-guests can buy a pool day pass on ResortPass. It starts at $56 per person including fees. It includes:

• the outdoor geothermal mineral pools and hot tub
• a first-come lounge chair and towel service
• a refillable water bottle
• lawn games such as bocce
• Wi-Fi and self-parking
• access to Fleetwood restaurant and bar (food and drink extra)

Spa treatments are not included and are booked separately. Day pass numbers are limited, so check availability for your date online before driving over.

MoonAcre Spa. The spa is open 9am to 5pm, seven days a week, and welcomes guests 16 and older. Current published prices:

• CBD Massage (hemp oil, arnica and ginger): $220 for 60 minutes, $325 for 90 minutes
• CBD Deep Tissue: $245 for 60 minutes, $335 for 90 minutes
• Lunar Renewal Ritual (30-minute back treatment plus 60-minute custom facial): $295
• MoonAcre Signature Massage, Custom Facial, Mud Painting and Mineral Salt Soak: priced at booking

Napa and Sonoma County residents get 15% off massages Tuesday through Thursday. Groups of four or more can book a “Sparties” package, starting at $1,968 for four, with a signature massage and custom facial each. Call the spa at (707) 942-0992 or email [email protected].

Rooms. Room types range from Retro Classic king and queen rooms to Premium rooms with balconies or terraces and two-bedroom suites. Accessible rooms include an ADA queen room and a king room with a roll-in shower. The Retro Classic rooms are the pet-friendly ones. Book through the hotel website or call (707) 737-0000. Hotel guests get pool access as part of their stay.

Classes. The lodge runs yoga, Pilates, guided bike rides and hikes, and boot camp or cardio boxing sessions. Saturday Aqua Zumba and Sunday Yoga are free for hotel guests and open to the public. Book classes at least 48 hours ahead.

Getting there

Calistoga is at the northern end of the Napa Valley. The lodge is at 1880 Lincoln Avenue, at the junction with the Silverado Trail, a short walk east of downtown Calistoga’s main street.

• From Napa: Drive north on State Route 29 through Yountville and St. Helena to Calistoga, or take the quieter Silverado Trail along the east side of the valley. The Silverado Trail ends at Lincoln Avenue, right at the lodge.
• From Santa Rosa and Sonoma County: Cross the Mayacamas Mountains on Petrified Forest Road or Calistoga Road into Calistoga.

There is on-site parking for guests and for day pass holders. Once you park, the pools are a few steps away.

When to go

Calistoga is busiest in summer and during the harvest season in late summer and fall, when weekend room rates peak and day passes sell out. Winter and early spring are quieter. A warm mineral pool on a cool, misty January day is the best version of this place.

Summer afternoons in Calistoga are hot. If you visit then, plan your soak for the morning or after the sun drops behind the Mayacamas.

Rules and etiquette

• Swimsuits required in the pools.
• Spa age limit: 16 and older for MoonAcre.
• Day passes must be reserved in advance online.
• Loungers are first come, first served. Do not hold several chairs with towels.
• Arrive early for spa treatments so you have time to change and use the steam room.

Where to stay nearby

The lodge itself is the obvious base. Calistoga has several other hot spring hotels within a few blocks, including Calistoga Spa Hot Springs on Washington Street, which has four geothermal pools of its own. St. Helena, about 15 minutes south, and the town of Napa, farther down the valley, have more hotels. Bothe-Napa Valley State Park, just south of Calistoga, has camping.

Safety notes

• Heat and alcohol: Hot mineral water and Napa wine are a poor mix. Drink water, keep soaks in the whirlpool short and do not drink heavily before getting in.
• Children: The wading pool is the warm, shallow option for kids, but supervise them at all times.
• Health: If you are pregnant or have heart or blood pressure problems, check with your doctor before soaking or booking heat treatments.
• Wet decks: Pool decks are slippery. Wear sandals.

Nearby stops worth adding

Old Faithful Geyser of California, a privately run geyser just north of town, erupts regularly and is a short drive away. Castello di Amorosa and Sterling Vineyards, reached by an aerial tram, are close by for wine tasting. The lodge’s free cruiser bikes are an easy way to get into downtown Calistoga for dinner.